Despite numerous changes to its landscape over the years, Kuala Lumpur has retained its majestic charm with Merdeka Square and its colonial surroundings at its heart. The beautifully-tended, 200m-long padang is the most famous stretch of green in KL – it was here that Malaysia proclaimed merdeka (freedom or independence) on August 31st, 1957. Beside the lofty flagpole is a giant TV screen with a mix of flashing advertisements and religious messages.

The venue for Malaysia’s annual Merdeka Parade (Independence Day) celebration, Merdeka Square hosts rock concerts and underneath the pitch is the Plaza Putra shopping complex. Meanwhile, directly opposite is the very British Tudor-inspired Royal Selangor Club: built in 1884 it was the favourite watering hole of the British elite and the centre of colonial society in its heyday. The frequent backdrop in most sightseeing photos of Merdeka Square, much of it was destroyed in a fire in the 1960s. The rebuilt club is still a favourite haunt of KL VIPs. The low, black-and-white mock-Tudor building used to be called ‘the Spotted Dog’ in memory of its mascot – a Dalmatian belonging to a former member. Though membership is open to anyone who can afford it, RSC’s colonial saloon is still an exclusive haunt and remains an all-male preserve.